Kivevé (Paraguayan Squash Purée)

Kivevé is a comforting Paraguayan squash dish, enriched with soft cow’s milk cheese. Also spelled quibebé, kivevé is a squash and cornmeal purée made in parts of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. The name is derived from the Guaraní term for a reddish color, which refers to the hue of the dish’s star ingredient, andaí. A hard winter squash with deep orange flesh, andaí is a genetic cousin to butternut and calabaza, either of which may be used in its place. This recipe, adapted from Graciela Martinez, calls for fresh queso Paraguay; the soft, mildly acidic cheese is used frequently in traditional recipes, many of which were created in the 19th century, when Paraguay was recovering from war and home cooks needed to stretch their infrequent meals with inexpensive calories and protein. According to Martinez, other fresh white cheeses like whole milk ricotta or farmer’s cheese make for a good substitute in this dish, which can be served as a hearty side or even as a semi-sweet dessert.